Les Alpilles: A Wilder Side of Provence

Provence has its fair share of showstoppers, but Les Alpilles stands out in its own way. A rugged mix of limestone peaks, medieval ruins, and endless olive groves, it’s got all the charm of Provence—just with a little more edge. Think less postcard-perfect, more wild and wonderful.

Tucked between Avignon and Arles, this pocket of Provence is packed with history, outdoor adventures, and some of the best olive oil you’ll ever taste.

What is Les Alpilles?

Despite the name, it’s not the Alps. “Alpilles” means “little Alps,” but these are more dramatic limestone ridges than towering peaks. They roll across western Provence like a jagged stone carpet, separating the Rhône Valley from the Camargue. At just 50 km across, it’s small but mighty.

The Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles keeps things wild and untouched. No high-rises, no big developments, just vineyards, olive groves, and medieval villages that seem to have barely noticed the passing centuries.

Why Visit?

Hike, Bike, or Wander Until You’re Starving

Les Alpilles is best explored on foot or by bike. There’s no better way to take in the herb-scented air, sweeping views, and occasional sheep sighting.

• Tour des Opies: A not-too-painful climb (498m) with Mediterranean views that make you forget about your legs.
• Circuit des Baux: Winds through olive groves and ancient ruins. A great spot for a picnic.
• Sentier des Moulins: An easy stroll past old windmills.

For cyclists, the winding Route des Alpilles is a dream—provided you don’t mind the occasional uphill battle.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence: A Pretty Town with a Wild Past

Van Gogh went a little crazy here, but who wouldn’t? Saint-Rémy is ridiculously scenic, with stone houses, sun-dappled squares, and one of the best markets in Provence (Wednesdays, come hungry).

• Saint-Paul de Mausole: The monastery where Van Gogh painted The Starry Night.
• Glanum: A Roman city with shockingly well-preserved ruins.
• Random Wandering: Cobblestone streets, hidden courtyards, tiny art galleries. You can’t lose.

Les Baux-de-Provence: A Castle on a Cliff

Perched on a rock like it’s in a medieval fantasy, Les Baux refuses to be ignored. Once home to feuding lords (and, allegedly, a few outlaws), the village is now full of cute shops, ancient ruins, and staggering views.

• Château des Baux: Climb the ruins and check out the catapults. Panoramic scenery over the Alpilles from a medieval fortress.
• Carrières de Lumières: A massive underground quarry turned into a unique psychedelic art experience.
• Sundown Magic: Watch the golden light transform the village into a masterpiece

Olive Oil and Wine: The Real Local Treasures

Les Alpilles runs on olive oil. The flavor profile from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence AOP is rich, peppery, and taken very seriously. Drop by a mill (like Moulin Castelas) and let an expert convince you olive oil tasting is as serious as wine tasting.

Speaking of wine, the vineyards here fly under the radar. The reds, whites, and rosés from places like Mas Sainte Berthe are just as drinkable as their famous Provençal cousins without stretching your budget.

A Laid-Back Base for Bigger Adventures

Les Alpilles puts you close to some of Provence’s biggest hits. Avignon, Arles, and the Camargue are all easy day trips. But staying here means avoiding tourist mobs while still getting all the good stuff—great food, dreamy landscapes, and café tables where you won’t have to fight for a seat.

When to Go

Spring and fall win the prize. Perfect weather, fewer crowds, and just the right amount of liveliness.

Summer? Busy, but festive. Expect lavender fields in full bloom, outdoor concerts, and markets that make you want to buy too many baskets.

Winter? Super quiet. Great if you want Provence to yourself, but some places close for the season. If you love long, cozy meals by the fire, you’ll be happy.

Why Les Alpilles is Worth It

Provence is packed with places that look like they belong in a painting. Les Alpilles? It’s a painting you may actually want to live in. Whether you’re hiking the cliffs, sipping wine, or getting lost in a medieval alleyway, this little corner of France sticks with you.