Traci Parent |
Traci Parent
May 23, 2025
There times during the year when you just want to get away – to lose yourself in the beauty of the surroundings – to relax and rejuvenate with new experiences that open up the senses. When the mood strikes, take a detour to Lou Calen in Cotignac. There is no word in French for “resort” or “retreat”, but Lou Calen is all of that. Luxury redefined. Their philosophy is “true luxury is not in opulence, but in space—the space to breathe, to reconnect, to simply be”. So while there is beauty, comfort and exquisite attention to detail, you are encouraged to make yourself at home; to settle into a cozy corner or to wander at will, following little floral-lined paths that lead to fountains, the prettiest pétanque courts surrounded by vineyards, and even the chef’s potager, which provides the restaurant with the freshest produce. There are hidden alcoves with comfortable , eclectic seating inviting you to grab a book from the resort’s librairie and linger. With stunning views of Cotignac, un des Plus Beaux Villages de France, you will want to do just that. Stay a while. Relax. Enjoy. Discover.
The minute you enter, you realize this isn’t a hotel stay, but a gradual, experiential unfolding that will surprise and delight at each turn. The lobby is an impressive bookstore, with topics from travel to cuisine to the latest novels in several languages. Find your petit bonheur by climbing the ladder to peruse each shelf. I was so distracted by the array of titles that I could barely focus on checking in! We did manage to procure our keys, but not before selecting a novel and two cookbooks, one of which is a new recipe book by Huguette Caren, the original owner of Lou Calen. Now in her 90s, she still frequents the place she made into a renown hotel. (There is nothing I love more than a great story and food!)
The Remarkable History of Lou Calen: From Sacred Stones to Star-Studded Retreat
As with most special places, this one has a rich history. “In the early 1800s, the Templar family purchased land at the entrance of Cotignac from the Duc de Condé and built a house using stones from the Notre Dame de Grâces Chapel, which was destroyed during the French Revolution. Various generations enjoyed the house until the end of the 1940s, when it was turned into a holiday home for young orphan girls.
In 1971, Huguette Caren, a local, bought the property and named it “Lou Calen”, which means “oil lamp” in Provençal dialect. Without any experience in hotel management, Huguette succeeded in turning the old building into an impressive 16 room hotel and a restaurant, with a reputation that would extend far beyond the borders of Provence. The hotel soon welcomed a cosmopolitan clientele, including various celebrities who would come to record in the studio of famous jazz pianist Jacques Loussier at Château Miraval, just minutes away. Joe Dassin, Henri Salvador, Brigitte Bardot, Pink Floyd, Sting and David Bowie, and even Mrs. De Gaulle were among the many stars who visited Lou Calen”.
The enchantment of this memoir sinking in, we settle into to our sumptuous, well-appointed room. There is no television, but rather an invitation to unwind in the form of books, comfortable robes, a vintage radio, and stunning views from each window. There are cozy chairs to sit and read, and the souvenir water bottles and hats for exploring the village are ours to bring home. Every detail bien pensé.
Our room is in the original hotel building, but some of the 34 rooms are located in new and renovated buildings across the property, allowing groups to be alone together with shared common space, or couples to enjoy complete privacy in a secluded suite. The views vary also, from the rolling countryside to the incredible cliffside Cotignac is famous for.
Provençal Immersion: Seasonal Workshops and Culinary Escapes at Lou Calen
As this is a destination to savor, there are a variety of immersive experiences to enjoy, some specific to the season. As it is winter, the pools and jacuzzi are anxiously awaiting warmer days, but there is still plenty to do. There is a drawing workshop offered, but it is the truffle hunting expedition that captures our attention. You forage for truffles, with the help of a well-seasoned dog, then make a decadent meal with your findings! At other times of the year, you can pick saffron and do a cooking class, or take a workshop making lavender spindles or ceramics. All of these rich experiences awaken the senses and provide a deep connection with the Provençal terroir.
You don’t have to leave the resort to experience a feast for the senses. Le Bistrot is a joyful, artsy space where chef-inspired dishes from local products are served with a smile. On Sundays brunch is served here, accompanied by live music. Speaking of live music, we happen to land on a night where La Tuf, the microbrewery, is having a jazz concert. Arthur and Michele are brewing beer in the space that has been converted from the former laundry room. They love to experiment, and Michele has just added mimosas to a huge vat. The beer will be ready to drink in about a month. As we stand at the small bar sampling the beer, I have to wonder where there is possibly enough seating for a concert in this tiny space. Michele, who now feels like an old friend, leads us upstairs to the most unexpected, fabulous room! It is filled with mismatched, comfy furniture, and there is artistic graffiti on the walls. Suddenly we feel transported into a New York speakeasy! The duo, a Brazilian singer and guitarist, perform to a constantly growing audience. It is a magical evening.
The following night we tried the Pastis Bar: O’Fadoli (En Provençal: c’est un fou un peu moins fou…un fada … or someone crazy about something). I didn’t think I was crazy about pastis, or that I even liked it! (I had tried pastis once, as a college student, and the harsh licorice taste had left a not-so-good impression.) But the bright neon yellow bar was simply too alluring. Surely a bar with some 74 different pastis would have one I would like? We were in good hands with Chloé, as she taught us the basics, such as it isn’t pastis if it doesn’t turn cloudy when you add water! She had a way of sniffing out which bottles would please which customers, and brought us three very different ones to try. Much like wine, they each had different notes that came to the palate, one more anis forward, one where cloves and spices came through, and my favorite of all was infused with the scent of pine needles: Pastisapin. Perhaps I am a fada after all!
We had hoped to try Le Jardin Secret,awarded the Michelin Green Star, but the restaurant was closed during our stay. We will simply have to return to experience the splendor of former Ducasse disciple Benoit Witz’s restaurant, a 200-year-old country house nestled among hills, vineyards and olive groves. We were not at all disappointed to dine at Le Bistrot once again, as there were too many great options on the menu!
Before we set off to explore the rest of Cotignac and the surrounding villages, there was one more mystery to uncover: the giant funnel located behind a small bar. As it turns out, during renovations, the workers stumbled upon a giant stone funnel – a former “ice factory”! Naturally, it was carefully preserved, and the story transcribed. Apparently between 1650 and 1885, more than 20 icehouses were built in this area. “During the winter, vast reservoirs were lined with clay and thus collected spring water through specially designed conduits. These became ice basins, and the thickness of the ice could reach 15 cm in 3 days. It was then that merchants and peasants would come and fill the “ice boxes”, for an average cost of 3 francs per day”. Like the rest of the retreat, there is nature, history and beautiful surprises at every turn!
While all the amenities surprise and delight, la cerise sur le gâteau is the staff. Never have I experienced such a friendly, helpful, personable staff! By the time we checked out it felt as if we were leaving old friends.
Lou Calen is the perfect place to explore the stunning villages and landscapes in the area. Nature, villages, artisans, history and gastronomy all await. Here is our suggested itinerary!
The Hidden Gem of Cotignac: A Plus Beau Village de France
I had been to Provence many dozens of times, but had never even heard of this village! Truly a hidden gem, Cotignac is known not only for its incredible hillside cliff, but also is the only place in the world to have had appearances by the entire Holy Family! I guess I am a little late to the party, because it is the 2nd pilgrimage site after Lourdes, and Stéphane Bern featured it on his show Le Village Préféré des Français in 2022. If you were in the dark like me, here is what you need to know about this amazing village!
Le Rocher
This impressive cliff is made up of le tuf or tuff, a volcanic rock with plenty of holes and lots of texture. To learn the history and discover all of the secret caves, consider a guided walking tour with John. (The helpful staff at Lou Calen can set this up). The houses on the cliff, troglodyte dwellings, have a special charm, and the views from the top are quite spectacular. In true Provençal fashion, there are plenty of olive groves and cypresses on the horizon.
Le Village
The village’s cobblestone streets and alleys lead to a charming village square lined with plane trees. The central fountain is surrounded by restaurants, boutiques and ceramic shops, as clay is plentiful here. Take some time to wander into the shops and galleries as there are many beautiful artisan treasures to be found.
Some of our favorite addresses in Cotignac:
Picotte Restaurant – excellent food in a cheerful and cozy atmosphere
Escapade Boutique – clothing, accessories and lifestyle boutique
Mirabeau wine shop – lifestyle boutique and tasting room (rosé & gin)
Galerie “La Truffière” – adorable, whimsical artisan products
Poterie Pénélope – handcrafted pottery, refurbished vintage suitcases
Market Day: Tuesday mornings
Pilgrimage Sites
Cotignac has the unique distinction as the only place that the entire Holy Family (Joseph, Mary and Jesus) has appeared. In 1519 the Virgin Mary appeared, holding baby Jesus in her arms. She was surrounded by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux and the archangel Saint Michael. She asked the people to build a chapel and pray there. The did as instructed, and it is said the Virgin Mary spread her graces there, most notably with the birth of Louis XIV, as the King and Queen had been unable to conceive. Louis XIV came to Cotignac on a pilgrimage to thank the Virgin Mary for giving him life. Because of this, pilgrims wishing to bear children often visit this chapel known as Notre Dame de Grâces.
You can also visit the St Joseph Monastery, and there is a path that links the two for a more “pilgrim” experience. It is on this site that Saint Joseph appeared to Gaspard Ricard in the same year. He was a thirsty shepherd, and Saint Joseph pointed to a giant rock, much too heavy for one man to lift. He gave him the strength to lift this boulder, uncovering a gushing spring. There is a place where you can fill your water bottle with this gushing water still today.
Detours to Complete Your Itinerary
There are many other picturesque places to visit in the area, some villages, other natural sites.
Located just 10 minutes from Cotignac, Sillans-la-Cascade is of course known for its incredible waterfall. There is a parking lot at the edge of town leading you on about a 15-minute walk to the impressive waterfall tumbling into a bright turquoise pool. The village is also worth a stroll, although it is fairly quiet during the winter months.
Tourtour, nicknamed the village in the sky, is another of the Plus Beaux Villages de France. At 625 meters of altitude (2050 feet), it is indeed a climb to get there! The drive up the windy road is quite lovely and the town itself worth the effort. Thanks to the great vantage point, people have found this site compelling for centuries, as the first people seem to have arrived in 3600 BC! There is also an abundance of water, resulting in a large number of fountains.
Start in the central Place des Ormeaux, then take the time to wander down each street as you will discover fountains, charming restaurants and shops, and beautiful vistas. Don’t miss the workshop of Bruno Louis, whose whimsical art will capture your attention and and invite you into a dream world filled with color.
Weekly Market: Wednesday and Saturday mornings
Plunge into the breathtaking scenery of les Gorges du Verdon, just an hour to the north. Cliffs of 250 to 700 meters surrounded by emerald-green waters provide a playground for a myriad of activities, such as climbing, hiking and biking. If a more relaxing vacation is your style, you can kayak on the tranquil waters of Lac Sainte-Croix. There is so much to see and do in this area that is unique and completely unexpected!
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie rounds out our trio of Plus Beaux Villages de France. Located in the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon, the word “picturesque” doesn’t come close to describing it! Ramparts, chapels, aqueducts and fountains – this small village of 700 inhabitants packs a ton of charm into a small area. Alas, there is not room to expand, as this village is carefully nestled between two rocky escarpments.
The Legend of the Star
Discovered at a bend in the path, Moustiers evokes a Provençal nativity scene landscape… According to the legend of Frédéric Mistral, the star is an ex-voto dedicated to the Virgin Mary, installed according to the wish of the knight Blacas, a crusader imprisoned by the Saracens in 1210, who had promised, if he returned to his village, to hang a star and its chain there in homage to Mary.
Faience
There are three essential ingredients for earthenware: water, earth and wood, all found in abundance in Moustiers, making it a central area for pottery since the Middle Ages.
Today there are 7 different workshops in the village, so you are sure to find a treasure.
Weekly Market: Friday mornings
The perfect get-away to recharge your batteries, relax and be inspired awaits! Located just over an hour from Aix-en-Provence or the Marseille airport, and about 1.5 hours from Nice, this is an easy detour that will bring you to another world!
Ready to plan your trip? On y va!
The Latest Posts
Stay in Touch
Get Traci’s updates on recommendations for authentic French adventures.
