French Christmas Magic: Markets, Lights, and Traditions

Traci Parent |

Traci Parent

May 31, 2025

We’re all ready to bid adieu to 2020, n’est-ce pas? Without a trip to France this year, I found myself craving that festive sparkle I usually soak up strolling through Christmas markets, sipping vin chaud. But French holiday magic doesn’t have to stay in France—why not bring a little of it home?

The French Holiday Season Starts with Sainte-Catherine

For Americans, Thanksgiving is the “porte d’entree” for the holiday season (If you can still fit through that porte after a robust Thanksgiving dinner!). Black Friday has recently become a thing in France, but the traditional beginning of the season is November 25 – Sainte-Catherine – which marks the beginning of Advent. (Advent comes from the latin aventus – “that which is to come)”. Advent calendars are such a part of the culture in France. If your old Advent calendar isn’t sparking joy anymore, try this DIY version: grab a big branch from the yard, stand it in a vase, and hang 24 children’s socks in red, white, and green with treats or messages inside. Add four candles around the base, one to light each Advent Sunday . Et voilà, a festive corner of the house to count down the days (because who doesn’t like the constant reminder that you are running out of time to shop?!)

Christmas Markets

Like many of you, I miss the Christmas markets that light up towns all across France. If you’ve never been to the Strasbourg market, it deserves a top spot on your bucket list. Last year, my husband and I wandered the glowing stalls, vin chaud in hand, completely enchanted. This year, we’re recreating the magic at home with our own vin chaud, fait maison. We picked up a package of the mulling spices at a stand, but it is easy enough to make your own.

Vin Chaud d’Alsace

1/2 liter of water
5-6 sugar cubes (or 1/4 cup of sugar)
3 cinnamon sticks
3 star fruit
3 whole cloves
1 liter of white wine (preferably from Alsace)
1/2 lemon
1 orange

Boil the water, sugar, cinnamon, star fruit and cloves until you obtain a mixture that is a bit thick and tacky. Turn down the heat and add the white wine. Add 2-3 slices of lemon and the sliced orange. Cover with a towel to keep in the heat and let it infuse for 10-15 minutes. Serve hot. (Maintain a warm temperature on low heat, but you must ensure that the wine doesn’t “cook”)

*This recipe can be made with pure apple juice instead of wine.

Saint Nicolas and a Slightly Sinister Legend

Saint Nicolas makes his rounds at the Christmas Markets in Alsance/Lorraine, and he is eagerly awaited throughout France on the night of December 5-6. He is accompanied by his donkey (Peckeresel), who carries baskets filled with children’s gifts, biscuits and candies. Children leave their shoes in front of the doors to their rooms and find them filled with sweets in the morning. As with most legends and traditions, there is a “lesson” component, so here is the folklore attached to this custom:

Three children were playing outside and got lost. A wicked butcher lured them into his shop, where he killed them and put them into a large vat. Saint Nicolas miraculously revived them and returned them to their families, earning him the reputation of Patron and Protector of Children. Le Père Fouettard, the evil butcher, dressed in black and carrying a large stick, often accompanies Saint Nicolas to threaten the children who have not been good.

My family chose to adopt the more “Disney” version, but If this year of quarantine has been especially difficult with your children at home, feel free to call on Père Fouettard.

Les Menele are the traditional Alsatian cookies for Saint Nicolas. (A bit brioche-meets-gingerbread). If you love a new baking challenge, follow the recipe here:

https://lescookines.com/2016/12/03/menele-de-la-saint-nicolas/

If you felt a wave of nausea at “baking challenge” and want a quick fix with something that you can easily mold into a Saint Nicolas, try the simpler Pâte d’amande, fait maison.

Pâte d’amande

Almond powder/flour – 125 grammes
Powdered Sugar – 125 grammes
Mix together then add:
Almond extract – 4 drops
Food Coloring (optional)

Beat one egg white until frothy, then add little by little to other ingredients until a ball forms.

Lyon’s Festival of Lights

Although Le Grand Est is especially known for its Christmas traditions, there are special events and customs all across France. Lyon has the Festival of Lights (Fête des lumières) on December 8. This festival pays tribute to The Virgin Mary for sparing the town from the plague in 1643. Families in Lyon put candles on their windowsills, lighting up the streets. Several areas of the city are reserved for pedestrians only during the four days of festivities, which feature light shows and food vendors. There is a solemn procession up to the Basilica of Fourvière on December 8th (the Feast of the Immaculate Conception) to light candles and give offerings in the name of Mary. Join the Lyonnais and put candles (preferably electric!) In your windows on December 8th. Maybe you can inspire your neighborhood to do the same!

French-Inspired Gifts

Looking for unique French gifts (that don’t come from Amazon)? Try these ideas:

Alliance Française boutiques often carry books, toys, and gourmet treats
ColisExpat lets you order from French stores that don’t ship to the U.S. — they forward packages right to you
Our French Detours boutique has a lot of artisan gifts available as well!

Books, cooking classes, and language courses also make great gifts for any francophile on your list. Wrap it up with a bottle of wine and a wedge of cheese for that extra French touch.

Joyeuses fêtes! Even if you’re not in France this year, you can still light a candle, sip something warm, and enjoy the season—à la française!